Golf Cart Lift Kit Install: Tools and Steps for Club Car and E-Z-GO
By GOLFCARTSTUFF.COM™ | Golf Cart Wheels, Tires, Lights | Published: 2026-10-13
Category: How-to Guides
A practical, ordered walkthrough for installing a golf cart lift kit at home, including the tools that prevent stripped bolts, jack stand safety, and the alignment check most first-timers skip.
Quick answer
A lift kit install is a half-day job if you prepare properly: soak the rear leaf spring and front spindle hardware with penetrating oil the night before, support the cart on jack stands under the frame (never the axle), and torque every suspension bolt with the cart on the ground rather than in the air. The most common failure isn't the lift kit itself, it's a snapped rusty U-bolt or a steering alignment left untouched after the cart comes down.
What you actually need in the toolbox
You do not need a shop full of specialty tools, but you do need the right sizes. Most Club Car and E-Z-GO suspension hardware uses SAE sizes, so a set of 9/16", 5/8", and 3/4" sockets and wrenches will cover the majority of front and rear fasteners. A 1/2" drive breaker bar and a can of penetrating oil are non-negotiable on a cart that has seen a few seasons of wet grass. Add a torque wrench rated to at least 100 ft-lbs, two tall jack stands, a floor jack, and a pair of locking pliers for holding a nut while you turn a bolt.
For the front end, a tie rod puller or a pickle fork saves you from hammering on steering components. A rubber mallet helps seat spindles and bushings without damaging threads. Keep a wire brush and anti-seize on hand for cleaning and reassembling hardware. If your cart has factory lug nuts, check the size before you start; some are 3/4" and some are metric, and guessing wastes time.
Lifting the cart safely and removing the stock parts
Chock the wheels you are not lifting, then raise the front first and place jack stands under the frame rails, not under the axle or the leaf springs. A lift kit changes the suspension geometry, so you want the cart's weight on the frame while you work. Once the front is stable, remove the wheels and set them aside. The front disassembly order matters: disconnect the tie rod ends from the spindles before you unbolt the kingpins, otherwise the steering will fight you.
On the rear, support the axle with the floor jack before you remove the U-bolts. The leaf springs are under tension and the axle can drop suddenly. Once the U-bolts are off, lower the axle just enough to slide the lift blocks or new spring perches into place. If the U-bolts are heavily rusted, plan on replacing them rather than reusing them; a stretched or pitted U-bolt will not hold torque.
Installing the lift kit components
Fit the new spindles or A-arms according to the kit instructions, and hand-tighten all hardware before you torque anything. This lets you shift components slightly to line up mounting holes. On spindle-style kits, the steering arm orientation is easy to flip by mistake; compare the new spindle to the old one before you install it. On A-arm kits, leave the pivot bolts loose until both arms are in place, then snug them down.
Reconnect the tie rod ends and check that the steering moves freely through its full range. If anything binds, stop and find out why before you put the wheels back on. Reinstall the wheels and lower the cart slowly, then bounce the suspension a few times to settle the springs. Only then should you torque the suspension bolts to the kit manufacturer's spec. Torquing in the air is a common mistake that leaves bushings twisted and causes squeaks or premature wear.
Post-install checks before you drive
After the cart is on the ground, check the toe-in at the front wheels. A lift kit changes the steering geometry, and even a small change in toe will make the cart wander or wear the front tires quickly. Measure from the center of the tire tread front and rear at axle height, and adjust the tie rod until the front measurement is slightly less than the rear. If the kit included a camber adjustment, set it to the manufacturer's recommendation before you set toe.
Recheck all lug nuts and suspension hardware after your first short drive. New components settle, and a bolt that felt tight in the driveway can loosen after a few bumps. Check tire clearance at full steering lock and with the suspension compressed; if a tire rubs a fender or frame, do not drive it until you correct the clearance. Finally, check your headlight aim if the front end height changed, and confirm your brake lines and cables have enough slack at full suspension droop.
Install steps at a glance
- 1. Prep the hardware: Soak all visible suspension bolts, U-bolts, and spindle nuts with penetrating oil the night before. Wire-brush exposed threads and have replacement U-bolts on hand if the originals are pitted. If a bolt will not break free with a breaker bar, stop and apply heat or more oil rather than snapping it.
- 2. Support the cart on jack stands: Chock the rear wheels, lift the front, and place stands under the frame rails. Never support the cart by the axle or leaf springs while you remove suspension parts. Give the cart a firm shake before you put any part of your body under it.
- 3. Disconnect steering before suspension: Remove the tie rod ends from the spindles first, then unbolt the kingpins or A-arms. This prevents the steering linkage from binding and makes the old parts easier to remove. Label left and right parts if the kit has side-specific components.
- 4. Fit new components hand-tight: Install the new spindles or A-arms and start all bolts by hand. Leave pivot bolts loose enough to shift the parts for alignment, then snug them once everything is in place. Compare new and old spindles side by side to confirm steering arm orientation.
- 5. Torque on the ground: Reinstall wheels, lower the cart, and bounce the suspension to settle it. Torque all suspension hardware to the kit manufacturer's spec with the full weight of the cart on the tires. Torquing in the air twists bushings and causes squeaks or premature wear.
- 6. Set toe and recheck: Adjust the tie rod so the front measurement is slightly less than the rear at axle height. Recheck lug nuts and suspension bolts after your first short drive. If the cart wanders or the tires rub at full lock, do not drive it until you correct the alignment or clearance.
Parts that fit this job
- EZGO TXT 6" Spindle Lift Kit (Gas, 2001.5-2008.5)⎮Jake's®: Jake's 6" spindle lift kit for EZGO TXT Gas (2001.5-2008.5) with the newer 4-bolt style steering shaft flange. If your TXT is in that year range, this kit is a direct fit and the spindle design keeps the install straightforward for casual driving or a tougher stance. Check your steering flange bolt pattern before ordering, because the older style will not match.
- LED Golf Cart License Plate Light: LED license plate light with the same mounting holes and appearance as the incandescent light it replaces. A lifted cart often needs a plate light to stay street legal, and this retrofit avoids drilling new holes or rewiring. It is a small add-on that pairs well with the lift install if you drive on roads.

